 The Pesants of Netherwallow carving the roast | Jerkins
Non-Militia or Baggage Trayne costume is English countryman or pesant except for more middle-class craftsmen and suttlers. Jerkins have no collars, usually lace up the front, have no tabs on the bottom seam, and are often long enough to have a belt over the waist. Shirts can be white or other colors.
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 Singlet by Sally Green | Doublets & Shirts
Doublets and singlets (sleeveless doublets) should button up the front to the neck. Doublets have short upright collars, the front seam meets all the way from the neck to the waist, and have tabs on the bottom seam/waist. Shirts should be white and have either a small ruff or large falling band (collar), and reasonably full sleeves. Sewing Central has a great collection of Elizabethan patterns! Approved clothing (ONLY these are approved) from Age of Chivalry: Quilted Jerkin (actually a singlet), Brass-Studded Doublet, Muslin shirt in creme or white, Boatman shirt in creme or white, and the not-period-but-functional as fencing armor "Fencing Vest" which is actually more of a Victorian heavy cotton sleeveless jacket. Renstore.com also has an approved doublet they call their "Twill Deluxe Jerkin", OK in blue, burgundy, green and tan -- and consider getting the matching Twill tie-on sleeves.
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Breeches & SlopsBreeches should be full-cut and fasten below the knees - long "pants" were not worn until the late 1700's. Age Of Chivalry's Knee Breeches are approved in brown only, avoid the modern "Fencing Pants". Renstore.com also has some Knee Breeches approved only in blue, green and tan. Slops and hose are period (but not required!) for events set in early Tudor and Elizabethan times.
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HatsHats should be flat-caps (fabric or leather), wide-brimmed felt hats (not side-pinned "Cavalier" style), smaller-brimmed fedoras, or other period hat types like wool caps, either knitted or felted. A great source is the Berkeley Hat Company (2510 Telegraph Ave, 510 549-2955), the Indian Joe, Pilgrim and some fedora models are good, try to find 'em in tan, brown or black felt.. Baggage Trayne / non-Militia hats can be the traditional pesant's muffin cap or straw hat.
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Leather accesoriesBelts, gauntlets, sword baldrics, and other leather items should be natural brown rather than black if possible. Berlin Glove company's brown deerskin Fringeless Gauntlet Gloves are available for $40 by request from Ravenswood Leather. Baldrics are difficult to find in simple period styles without hokey rivets, buckles and straps. Super-authentic but expensive baldrics and rapier hangers are available from Lutel in the Cezch Republic. Best commercial price is $40 for the brown "European" model from By The Sword , prices double for baldrics from Swords N Stuff, as well as Ravenswood. The baldric from Medieval Mayhem is passable without the ridiculous "D-ring" ties - specify one without.
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Shoes & BootsShoes should be low-cut 'latchet' types, boots should be bucket-top style, in either round or square-toed styles. Renstore.com has a latchet-style "17th Century Shoe" that is approved. Sarah Juniper in the UK makes extremely well-regarded period footware. Here's directions for making your own "economy" latchet shoes from modern footware. Recommended oxford-style shoes include the Humter's Bay at Payless Shoe Source, and the Venturini "Comfort Line" at Shoe Pavilion. Get them wide & large if you can, be sure to get smooth-soles instead of lug soles, and leather in natural colors rather than black.
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Stockings & HoseStockings should be white or natural colours, and cover all bare skin between footware and breeches. Jason Townsend & Sons carries a great selection of tall cotton and wool stockings. For hose try dance suppliers andcostume houses, specify cotton, linen or wool in natural colors. An extra outer pair of thicker wool socks is very authentic, usually worn turned down over the tops of the shoes.
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Swords & DaggersThree "classes" of swords:
COSTUME SWORDS -
Rapiers and parrying daggers/main gauches, or soldier's swords. Designed to look period for your rank, not for combat or fencing use!
STAGE-COMBAT SWORDS -
Rapiers and parrying daggers/main gauches, or soldier's swords. Designed to fit rank, can be used in full-contact battles or bouts.
FENCING SWORDS -
Rapiers and parrying daggers/main gauches, probably no soldier's swords. Designed for competitive fencing, may not fit rank.
Swords and daggers, unless used for stage combat, should also match rank. Black-iron hilted swords with broad blades are best for suttlers and soldiers. Only officers should carry fancy weapons and firearms -- avoid the brass and chrome-hilted 'fantasy' weapons sold online and by Faire merchants. The Guild recommends specific weapons, not everything by the following merchants!
Recommended Daggers for Swordsmen - Age of Chivalry's Side Ring Main Gauche, Left Hand Parrying Dagger, and Classical Main Gauche; Armour Class' Sail Guard Dagger.
Recommended Rapiers for Swordsmen - Age of Chivalry's Hanwei Black Iron Swept Hilt Rapier, Pappenheimer Cup Rapier, Swept Hilt Rapier, Wood Handled Renaissance Rapier, German Rapier ; Armour Class' Pappenheimer and Swept Hilt; Bailiff Forge's Swept Hilt, Papenheimer & French Pappenheimer .
Recommended Swords for Musketeers, Pikemen, Artillery & Middle-class Civilians - By The Sword's Practical Mortuary Hilt Sword #2076-GT is a very affordable black-iron-look Morturary hilted soldier's sword, Lutel's Cavalry Sword #12006, Museum Replicas' Schiavona #1-034 and Scottish Backsword #1525, Age of Chivalry also carries the Schiavona, and their German Sword Rapier works for either Swordsman or Soldier; Armour Class' Tower Hanger (shown on left), Shell & Ring Guard, andMortuary Hilt; Bailiff Forge's Walloon, Pikeman's Hanger, Lightweight Tuck & Tower Pattern Hanger.
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 Armour by Derek Cole |
ArmourArmour was worn primarily by Pikemen and Officers, although some Musketeers wore helmets. Only officers and fully-armoured Pikemen wore Gorgets. Recommended armourers are Derek Cole in the UK and Valentine in Canada. Age of Chivalry has several passable helmets which need dulling or blacking, the Cabasset and Combed Morrion.
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